Evangelia Papoutsaki MA Leeds, PhD Cardiff, MRSNZ

When people heard I was flying to the Philippines, most assumed I meant Cebu. It is the country's tourist capital, the archipelago's front door, the place with the direct flights and the dive resorts and the iconic lechon (crispy whole roasted pig ) stalls that make it onto every itinerary. I did not go to Cebu. After three cancelled connections out of Manila, I landed instead in Tacloban, the capital of Leyte, to co-host an international conference on small island cultures.