Life lesson: If the main street looks unpromising, turn a corner!

When I stepped out of Kushiro Station—the gateway to my Lake Akan trip—I felt underwhelmed. Hmm, I thought, how am I going to spend four hours here before my bus leaves? And another four and a half on the return trip to Shiretoko? No offense to Kushiroans, who surely know their town’s hidden layers far better than a passing traveler like me.

Tempted as I was to camp out at the station and catch up on emails, curiosity won. I set off down the main street, nearly deserted at 11:30 a.m., with few shops open. Then, on a whim, I turned a corner, hoping for something more promising—and, by then, desperately needing coffee after my 5:30 a.m. departure from Sapporo.

Bingo! There it was: Kura Cafe, boasting an Ainu reference library. I stepped inside—and what a find! Friendly obachans (local grandmothers) sprang into action, their sole mission to uncover where this foreigner had come from and why she’d wandered into their town. When they (mistakenly) thought I spoke Japanese—which I pretend to do —they were delighted!

I was seated, served a freshly made red bean cake and coffee, and presented with Ainu reference books, brochures, and maps. Then, I was directed upstairs to explore local history exhibits. Wow, I thought, imagine if I’d stuck to the main street—what would I have missed? Needless to say, I lingered, soaking up the stories, flavors, and warmth.

Before leaving, the kind woman who’d served me showed me some Ainu crafts. I asked if she was Ainu herself. “No,” she said. “Ah, so you’re Nihonjin?”I replied, keeping the conversation conventional. She quickly corrected me: “*Hokkaido no hito*” (a Hokkaido person). And there it was—my first taste of Hokkaido identity politics. I nearly asked why she didn’t say “wajin” (what Ainu call ethnic Japanese), but I held back. Identity debates with strangers are rarely polite, and she had been so welcoming.

Next time in Kushiro, I will return to this café. Or perhaps turn down another unknown corner to see where it leads? To be fair to Kushiro, by the time I reached the bridge and harbor, my impression of it had already brightened—sunlit seascapes always lift my mood!